RHODODENDRONS AND THE MIST

 PART II

A six-hour uphill trek from Srikhola brings us to the Indo-Nepal grazing border, where we shoot our research documentary. The sight of coniferous and decidious forest covered narrow routes, towards the distant mountain patches of flowering rhododendron trees feels like an enticing crimson sprinkle on the green mountains. Weather was fair, and the mountainscape reminded us why Darjeeling is one of the most beautiful places on the planet.  Sandakphu-Phalut trek is well-known for its allure, but we took a detour away from the trekkers and vehicle-oriented visitors. Moreover, this route is preferred to transport supplies to military camps and herders along the Indo-Nepal border.

There were nine of us in all, including some of the villagers who helped us to the hilltop. Our cinematographer recalls previous picnic days and the desire to eat Puri Alu dum in the middle of the steep climb. Despite the fact that the way was awkwardly taxing I'm not sure if it was the weather, or the wind blowing 80km/hr on the Indo-Nepal border, or the local drink offered in the herder's place, we had some of the most enlightening talks spanning from politics, life, gender roles, and the environment.

Sherpa, Gurung, and Rai herders grazed their yaks at elevations ranging from ten to twelve thousand feet in the harsh climatic conditions favouring the ecosystem and the charm of the Himalaya. Their livelihood is based on dairy production, specifically Churpi, a type of dessicated hardened cheese made from the milk of these animals and sold in Darjeeling and Kalimpong markets. This practise dates back to pre-colonial times. Darjeeling's founders also recognised the economic benefit of obtaining dairy products from here rather than the distant plains for the santorium need. To meet the needs for fodder and firewood, large grazing grounds were required. In order to achieve this goal, vast tracts of forestland were acquired in 1882-83 from the descendants of wealthy nobleman named Chebu Lama (Bhattacharya,2017). Following independence and the passage of forest protection laws, National Park rules prohibited grazing access in the Indian region. As a result, the border grazers have relocated their yaks/cattles to the Nepal frontier. 

While we missed the dense mist that prevails for the most of  time in Singalila National Park, the misted minds does ramble about the hills in quest of stories. In the guise of narrative, with the hope that one day the dense fog of the mind would clear away, allowing us to see a different perspective of what we see. To view ourselves as constructing and discovering a new perspective on life not just amid the lonely crowds or in the middle of din of towns and cities, gazing at technology for the entire day, seeking tranquility in alcohol or the tipsy evenings, but sometimes on the weary trek amidst the mist with thyself.

 "आकाशलाई छुने, संसारलाई ढाक्ने

विशाल तिम्रो डाल

उडेको बादलले, छोपेको तिम्रो मुहार

लजाउने तिम्रो चाल

हजारौँ छ तिम्रो रुप, मननै नमेटिने

जति हेरेपनि

राखेछौ अँगालोमा लिएर, साथमै तिमीले

हामीलाई जुनि जुनि"

- Mountain High, Bipul Chettri

P.S. 

Thanks to Sherpa Top Homestay, Sherpa family and friends of Srikhola.

Indigenous Project team, Sikkim University.

Pallawib Singcock and Nikhil Sharma. 

Thendup Sherpa and family, Rimbick. 

💛