The Soul Keeper Village in Nagaland

In various religious and philosophical traditions, the soul is regarded as the non-material essence of a person, encompassing one's identity, personality, and memories. It's seen as an immaterial aspect of a living being that is believed to transcend physical death… Intriguing!

Although I'm unsure about the existence of the soul, I like to think it does. The thought excites me that I might have left my soul (while still alive), in a distant land in Northeast India—Longkhum, Nagaland. Nestled in Mokokchung district somewhere 6500ft. Longkhum stands as the highest-altitude village in the land of the Ao tribe. This legendary village, is famed as “Ao-funemro” or Vanguard Village, a name it earned during the headhunting era.

Longkhum entices travellers with a promise: 

“Your soul stays back on your first visit. You have to return to retrieve your soul.” 

The village's charm lies in its breathtaking natural beauty and the harmonious relationship between its people and their rich cultural heritage, the myths and legends. With such a wonderful landscape, I wouldn't mind visiting it again.

The recent academic trip to the Mokokchung district in Nagaland was an immersive experience in every sense. Learning research methodology at Nagaland University was one thing, but meeting new people, making friends and exploring the unknown were equally significant aspects of the journey. Ever since I returned from Nagaland, the place has lingered in my thoughts. 

Longkhum Village 

Reflections on Longkhum Camp

A few days ago, I posted pictures of Longkhum, and my intellectually inclined cousin reminded me of a Nepali novel Longkhum Camp (1961), which we once had in our school curriculum. This book, penned by Sir. Subash Ghising, a prominent political leader from the Darjeeling hills, reflects much of his own military experiences. Ghising joined the army at the tender age of 19 in 1954, but his growing conscience led him to leave the army after six years of service. He then published Longkhum Camp, continued his studies, and went on to become a political legend in the hills. (Sometimes, to find our way, we must let go of careers, places, and people that no longer serve us. As I write this, I find myself smirking at the thought, some might know why).

In Longkhum Camp, Ghising's critical reflections as a narrator and main character offer an sensible purview of a soldier's life on the eastern frontier in Nagaland during WWII. The protagonist has a heart as much human as any civilian, has friends in his troop who are often referred in mere service number stripping away their humaness. Amidst this internal turmoil of his duty and his rationality he falls for a woman named Asangla (in the Ao culture, women’s names end with “la”) from the nearest village and ultimately chooses to live a life away from the recklessness and futility of war. Longkhum village and the military camp plays a crucial role in shaping the paths of this amateur soldier in pursuit of peace, perhaps mirroring the author's own journey. This choices also must have influenced the revolutionary wave and socio-political movements in the Darjeeling hills later on, led by Ghising. The narrator did get his way out, fate ironically led Ghising to led a path in leadership and politics making him one of a kind. 

To all the lost and found souls.

Mtsüben

Lunglangba: This natural stone ridge winds its way through a stunning rhododendron forest

Resource person: Imli, Akho, Tajen, Lima, Mark

Many thanks to these Ao friends for showing us around, sharing their stories!

Video Courtesy: Mudang Onju

Longkhum Camp Audiobook: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=q02dKMFY82k

More about Longkhum: https://explorelongkhum.com/places-to-visit/

More about Ghising: https://thedarjeelingchronicle.com/subash-ghising-man-legend-legacy/

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